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The Lowdown on Wood Flooring Underlayments

By Michelle Desnoyer
August/September 2008
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It can be hard to imagine that a thin layer of paper or plastic may be the difference between a successful wood flooring installation and a complete failure, but underlayments may be the miniinsurance policy a contractor needs. Technically, anything underneath hardwood flooring qualifies as an underlayment. This includes substrates such as plywood and OSB, as well as self-leveling compounds. For this article, because many contractors are in the dark about them, the main focus will be moisture- or vapor-retarder (formerly referred to as vapor-barrier) and sound-reduction underlayments.

There are several important things to remember about underlayments from the start. First, always defer to the manufacturer's instructions. If a hardwood flooring manufacturer requires a certain vaporretarder or sound reducer for its product, use it. If an underlayment manufacturer says its product can't be used in certain applications, find something more suitable for your job. Also, make sure you evaluate the job site. Is there a moisture problem? Is sound control an issue? Most importantly, know your product. Always read and follow the wood flooring manufacturer's recommendations and, if necessary, talk with the manufacturer and your distributor to make sure the product is applicable in your situation.

Wet 'n' Wild

The majority of calls to the NWFA technical hotline, as well as most inspections, are moisture-related. Moisture itself isn't necessarily a problem; it's how you handle (or don't handle) the moisture levels that causes problems. Installation of a vapor retarder reduces the potential for moisture or moisturerelated problems, but does not guarantee to eliminate them.

NWFA guidelines define an acceptable vapor-retarder for wood subfloors as a vapor-resistant material, membrane or covering with a vapor permeance (or perm rating) between 0.7 and 50. Moisture vapor permeance is the rate at which moisture travels through a substance, in this case, from the subfloor into the flooring (a higher number indicates less resistance to moisture). The purpose of a vapor-retarder is to slow the rate of moisture movement to the hardwood to protect the flooring and reduce or prevent cupping or other moisture-related problems. Moisture-retarders tend to fall into three general categories:

Permeable: These provide a perm rating of 3 and higher. Permeable vapor retarders allow moisture to pass through, and are generally installed over wood subfloors. Permeable membranes slow seasonal changes in moisture vapor movement enough to give hardwood flooring over wood subfloors some protection. These products include Type I asphalt-saturated felt paper (also called #15 or #30 felt) and asphalt-saturated Grade D kraft paper. Be sure to use products that meet industry standards: ASTM D4869 and UU-B790a Grade D. Asphalt-saturated products typically come in rolls and are installed over the subfloor with the seams overlapping a minimum of 4 inches. Some experts say asphalt-saturated felt does little to protect wood flooring from moisture since its perm rating is more than 4. However, many contractors still use asphalt-saturated felt paper in order to keep a concrete subfloor from deteriorating their 6-mil polyethylene vapor-retarder or just to provide a smooth surface on which to work. A system for using felt over a concrete subfloor is the "two-layer felt system," which sandwiches asphalt mastic/felt/mastic/felt/ mastic, with the plywood and flooring nailed over it. But overall, asphalt-saturated kraft paper may be a better bet since its perm rating is lower (almost down to 0.8 in some cases).

Semi-permeable: These have a perm rating of 0.7 to 2.9, so they allow some moisture vapor to travel through, but more slowly than with a permeable membrane or no membrane at all, giving hardwood flooring more protection. These products include asphalt-laminated paper and some asphalt-saturated kraft papers, and usually are used over a wood subfloor. They come in rolls, and seams are overlapped a minimum of 4 inches. Be sure the product you choose meets ASTM UU-B-790a Grade B.

Impermeable: These have a perm rating of 0.15 or less, bringing moisture migration from the subfloor very close to zero, and are acceptable over concrete. The most common impermeable underlayment is construction-grade 6-mil polyethylene film. It is rolled out over a concrete slab with the seams overlapping 12 inches. The seams should be taped when installing an impermeable moisture retarder.

An emerging class of impermeable vapor retarders are the liquid-applied chemical underlayments, which include trowelable or rollable barriers (some may have a perm rating higher than 0.15). They are typically available in single-component urethane or two-component epoxy and are recommended for concrete slabs on or below grade. The urethane is troweled on, while the epoxy is applied with a paint roller. Adhesives bond well to these urethane or epoxy products, and since they have moisture-retarder qualities, they can be used in lieu of 6-mil polyethylene, which can't be used under adhesives.

Vapor Retarder Dos and Don'ts

Don't assume you won't have moisture problems since your current readings say the job site is dry enough.

Do use a vapor retarder.

Don't install an impermeable moisture barrier over a wood subfloor. This could trap moisture in the subfloor, possibly causing rot and leading to health and structural problems.

Do use impermeable barriers on concrete slabs for below- and on-grade applications, and over crawlspaces. Use only permeable or semi-permeable retarders on wooden subfloors.

Don't nail through an impermeable moisture retarder. This reduces the effectiveness of the retarder and allows moisture to travel through freely.

Do float two layers of plywood stapled to each other over the vapor retarder and nail flooring to that, or glue or float flooring directly over trowelable underlayment.

Don't use red rosin, building paper or unsaturated kraft paper as moisture retarders over wood subfloors. The permeability is too high to offer any protection to wood flooring.

Do find a retarder with a permeability rating and written recommendation by the manufacturer for your particular subfloor.

Don't forgo moisture underlayments with radiant heating.

Do follow the manufacturers' recommendations regarding vapor retarders for radiant heat and, when required, use a non-asphalt underlayment (asphalt may cause an odor when the radiant heat is first turned on).

Slab Work

As with every job, test the moisture content of your subfloor and your hardwood flooring (for more information, see "Measuring Moisture" in the October/November 2006 issue of Hardwood Floors and "Concrete Facts" in August/September 2007). Slabs testing higher than 3 pounds of moisture should have a 6-mil polyethylene film or a concrete sealer, often found in the new rollable or trowelable moisture retarder products, installed over them. These products should be warranted by the manufacturer for the level of moisture emissions the slab is giving off. Even if testing indicates an acceptable slab, moisture conditions may change in the future and you may want to consider a vaporretarder as a further precaution. The NWFA suggests automatically using a vapor retarder when solid ¾-inch hardwood is installed over a concrete slab. Other than these guidelines, a contractor has a lot to choose from, and a lot of opportunity to make mistakes.

Sound Abatement

As high-rise and multifamily dwellings become more commonplace, there is a need to reduce sound from the neighbors. For these projects, architects or builders typically have a number in the building specifications that they want flooring contractors to reach for noise protection. These regulations, typically issued by the Uniform Building Code or the International Building Code, specify STC or IIC numbers. Sound Transmission Class (STC) quantifies the transmission of airborne sound (the neighbor playing his stereo) through building elements such as walls, windows, doors or flooring systems. Impact Isolation Class (IIC) measures impact sound (the neighbor tap-dancing on the floor) through a floor/ceiling assembly system. Manufacturers authorize the testing for their products and then provide the results of STC and IIC testing for their underlayments in specific and detailed floor/ceiling assemblies.

The higher test rating a product receives, the better it is at sound reduction. Building specifications typically require a minimum 50 IIC and 50 STC value.

This is where things get tricky for flooring contractors: An underlayment might be tested in a controlled setting with an 8-inch concrete slab, a 12-inch space and an acoustic-absorbing ceiling below it, which would provide better results than will be experienced on the actual job site. Typical buildings aren't built this way and testing results will likely be at least two to three points higher than they will be on the job site. For jobs where there isn't a specific sound reduction product specified, unless a wood flooring contractor has extensive experience with sound reduction, it's best to consult with an expert to determine what product will perform to expectations

Sound control products commonly come in two types: synthetic and cork.

Synthetic: Most commonly in foam or other artificial materials, it is available in either open-cell, closed-cell or needle-punch construction. Closed-cell is often more expensive, but it can prevent the flattening out seen in some open-cell foams, making it more effective for sound control. Needle-punch construction mechanically interlocks synthetic or natural fibers, using no bonding agent such as glue.

Synthetic underlayments can be used over wood or cement subfloors and are used primarily under floating floors. Synthetic products come in rolls and are laid out with butt ends at the seams. Some manufacturers recommend taping the seams in order to prevent sound from traveling through the cracks, or some provide overlap strips with pull-off tape. For full sound abatement, the underlayment needs to run up the wall 6 inches. It may present a problem for direct glue-down installations, as some adhesives don't adhere well to PVC.

Cork: It is typically called ¼-inch cork, but it is actually 6 mil. It is often glued to concrete in a high-rise with engineered flooring glued over it, and can also be used for floating or solid flooring. Cork underlayment is available in either rolls or sheets, and, like foam, is installed with butt ends at the edges in a tight fit, with seams taped to prevent sound migration. High-quality cork underlayments retain a high percentage of their original shape, even after years of foot traffic, and cork is often used as a green alternative to foam. However, it is more expensive and requires additional labor. Also, if used on a concrete slab protected by 6-mil polyethylene, the adhesive won't be able to glue cork to the polyethylene, so consider using a "buffer" layer of asphalt-saturated kraft paper or similar product.

Sound Abatement Dos and Don'ts

Don't choose an inexpensive underlayment for floating flooring that will flatten out, as this may damage "click-lock" joints and also reduce sound effectiveness.

Do choose higher-quality underlayments that will retain shape and prevent flooring movement.

Don't nail through or in other ways puncture the sound underlayment. This will negate its effectiveness.

Do float plywood or the flooring over the underlayment so flooring can be fastened down without damaging the underlayment.

Don't just lay the underlayment down and expect it to do its job.

Do remember to tape the seams of the underlayment to prevent sound from traveling through it.

Don't remedy flooring noises by simply drilling screws through the flooring into the subfloor, which typically punctures the sound barrier.

Do make sure the subfloor is flat so undulations won't cause noises in the flooring.

Two for One

At first, it may seem moisture retarders and sound reducers are mutually exclusive: Moisture problems are more likely to occur on or below grade, where sound abatement isn't usually necessary, and on jobs where sound abatement is required, there is little chance of a moisture problem over what is typically an air-conditioned, environmentally controlled space. However, when dealing with concrete slabs, especially for a project under serious time constraints, the flooring may be installed before the slab has acceptable moisture levels. Or, conditions may change due to flooding or other environmental impacts. There are products that combine both sound reduction and moisture protection. At least one trowelable product has both vapor reduction and sound prevention qualities mixed in, and many varieties of foam feature a moisture barrier film.

Final Cut

Some contractors are always looking for shortcuts or a formula to dictate which products they should use but, as with many things in life, there really aren't any quick answers. Understand your wood flooring and the job-site conditions, determine what your concerns are about that particular job, and go from there to gather information about which moisture retarder and/or sound abatement options will work best to protect your floor and help your clients live in peace.

Sources for this article included: Roger Barker, Fortifiber Building Systems Group; Alan Blake, Rob Woodley and David Gladden, GAF-ELK Corp.; Lenny Hall, Endurance Floor Co. Inc.; Frank Kroupa, NWFA; Larry Lyons, Amorim Industrial Solutions; Phil Pitts, Bostik Inc.; Lanny Trottman, Global Market Partners Inc.; and Danielle Watier, Finitec Canada.


Michelle Desnoyer is a former associate editor at Hardwood Floors.



        Subfloor preparation                   

 Comments:

what would you suggest as a sound abatement underlayment for hardwood flooring and porcelin tile floor. Thanks and good information?
Randy  Homeowner - retired  5/31/2012 9:22:01 AM

Michelle, or anyone else - why is it that noone will just come out and say what the "named" products are? the above article has a lot of good information, but no acual product name help. I find these types of articles more worried about offending suppliers than helping consumers. i am looking for the BEST underlayment available for a Floating Engineered FLoor on a grade level Concrete surface that has both excellent water vapor barrier and deadeining of sound qualities for to alleviate "tappping" sound problems that occur with FLoating Engineered Wood FLoors. Who actually know the RIGHT PRODUCT To BUY? Would love a real answer. RJB
Robert  Cottage  6/13/2012 6:20:21 PM

Robert, we aren't able to recommend products at the magazine. But I recommend you pose your question on our forum (www.hardwoodfloorsmag.com/forum), where you can get unedited feedback from real wood flooring professionals. You have to register to post, but it only takes a minute.
Kim Wahlgren  Editor  6/18/2012 10:39:33 AM

I would like to know how much the IIC would increase by laying 2 layers of 3.2 mm which has an IIC of 71 per single layer depending on what subfloor its layed on, I`m laying it on wood subfloor and the strata council wants 74 IIc but I didn`t find any underlayment with an IIC that high. Thanks for any info.
patrick  diy  6/24/2012 10:12:36 AM

This article was really helpful. I have a few questions. The brief on my project is that I have a slab that is eight inches up off the floor, in a new construction project in Southern California. I will be installing wide plank 3/4 inch solid oak floors. I noticed the recommendation for two layers of plywood floating over the plastic barrier. Should these layers be run in opposite directions? Why is two better than one thick one, and what size should those layers be? Any other advice you would have would be appreciated.
Chase  Homeowner/builder  6/30/2012 10:09:22 PM

What underlayment is recommended under engineered wood flooring that is going over a gypcrete radiant heated floor ? thx Don
Don Bruce  Owner/ builder  5/26/2013 6:52:03 PM

I live in Oregon and my installer wants to put in an underlayment of asphalt saturated felt for our unfinished oak floors. I do not see that listed as an option in this article, and am wondering if this is a good idea. Worried about off-gassing, its effects on indoor air quality, too. Appreciate thoughts and feedback, thanks.
David    6/21/2013 6:47:24 PM

About two years ago, I had engineered hardwood installed with cork underlayment. Shortly after the installation, 'bubbles' in the surface began to appear in one area. It grew to about the size of a golf ball. Further, the edges of the planks surrounding that area started to look 'worn' – I live alone; this would not be expected. I got a top-quality brand, hardiness level 5 so I did not anticipate anything like this to occur. I assumed maybe I dropped an ice cube and it damaged the floor (even though it is outside my bedroom door, and not in the kitchen). About 6 months after that bubble started, a new one began, this time in the hallway (about 20 ft from the first location). In several areas around the condo, the wood is warping. You cannot see it, but can certainly feel it when walking. Could this possibly be the result of not laying down plastic between the concrete and cork? I have great pictures; I wish I could post them! Thoughts?
Jennifer  Condo owner  8/23/2013 12:28:58 AM

Help please. I'm installing 3/4 solid walnut over a plywood subfloor. I want to maximally minimize the sound from my condo to my neighbor living directly beneath me. I don't want to ruin her quality of life. What is the best underlayment I can use? There are so many opinions out there. Can anyone help me please? Also I will be covering 80% of the floors with rugs.
Jacob  Solid wood flooring and underlayment   12/1/2013 4:43:14 PM

Why not try the Sika Acoustibond system? It is very quiet and has a nice feel when you walk on it.
Scott Avery    12/1/2013 4:50:07 PM

Hello Scott Avery. Thanks for your quick response. I checked out Sika and it appears that their underlayment is not for 3/4 inch solid wood flooring but instead Sika is used for floating floors. I need an underlayment for 3/4 inch solid wood floors that will be nailed down.
Jacob  Solid wood flooring and underlayment   12/1/2013 6:21:08 PM

I have installed solid over that system. You just have to make sure there is really good milling. The system is a direct bond to the plywood so it will grab. To be extra careful possibly use a buffer over the subfloor to ensure no contaminants exist that mess up adhesion.
Scott  owner  12/2/2013 4:28:11 PM

Thanks Scott. Do you think Sika makes a small, medium or huge difference in the amount of noise it suppresses between the installed floor and the person living under the floor? My neighbor is very sensitive. I read about a product called Bellawood Premier Underlayment. Is anyone familiar with this product? It looks like carpet padding. Thanks again Scott for your advice.
Jacob    12/3/2013 1:42:03 AM

Compared to a nail down floor there is a significant difference. Given that you are in a condo, I would highly recommend you check with the HOA and STC ratings needed for underlayments and then verify with Sika. The system is quiet, which is the best way to describe it. Years ago when I first heard about it, I recall that the rep said it met most STC requirements for commercial buildings. I also like the product because it has a very nice feel when you walk on it.
Scott  owner  12/3/2013 10:57:21 AM

Thank you very much Scott. Your advice has been excellent. I will buy Sika.
Jacob    12/4/2013 6:39:59 PM

I warn anyone planning on using underlayments to consult an acoustical consultnt if noise abatement is desired. My upstairs neighbor installed a floating engineered wood floor over a very highly rated (IIC) underlayment. We live in a noise hell. It sounds like we are inside a drum. I have resorted to wearing Bose noise cancelling headphones and still hear it LOUDLY. As noted in the article, the ratings are for floor assemblies not necessarily representative of your floor. But most importantly, the ANSI IIC rating is based on A weighted sound measurements that completely ignore low frequency sound that is (a) the most disturbing and (b) travels through building structures virtually unabated. Booming thuds do not even register on my sound level meter (minimum 50 dB) when on A weighting, but regularly register 60 to 70 dB on C weighting - which does include low frequencies. I know of at least 3 owners who are at their wits end over this issue.
Mark  resident  12/21/2013 3:48:42 AM

The best comment was from Mark above. Our business is sound and vibration control and there is so much mis-information out there regarding underlayments. The ones like the comment above about an IIC of 71, who ever is selling that are just plain lying to you. You can't get that high without an engineering floating ceiling being used in the test. Don't trust any IIC claim that does not tell you the assembly tested. We have been at this for over 36 years and we know that the underlayments that truly work and will work forever (not crush out) are made from rubber.
Bill Wilkinson  Sound and Vibration Control  1/6/2014 6:11:22 PM

Hi All- Hoping you might be able to help. In renovating my mom’s condo, Luna proposed using a Scuba Thermal Silent (ST46) underlay. They say it’s rated to 67dB IIC and STC. However, her condo management company and board are requiring ½ inch cork (not just quarter inch), but have not provided any industry data supporting their decision. It wouldn’t matter except that this is going to increase the cost of her floor project by about 50% from 8k to 12k. I’m desperate to get my hands on any industry insight about the comparison of ½ cork verses the ST product. I don't know the type of subfloor - just that it is concrete.
Fran Scott  wellness manager  2/4/2014 2:38:45 PM

often times the acoustic membrane is not the cause of the sound transmission to the apartment below, there is a science to installing any hard surface floor ceramic or hardwood, you cannot touch the walls, at all. undercutting must allow a business card gap, when you set your base boards, there must be a slight gap the expansion gap at the walls can be filled with foam weather stripping. it is tough and takes attention to detail. because anywhere you touch the frame of the dwelling you send sound we have done this often with a glued down product. the gentleman who was going to nail his floor down. i would assume that you would put your acoustic barrier sandwiched between the rooms floor and your own floating plywood sub floor i am not sure but do not think there is much point if you are nailing directly into the roof of the apartment below? anyway i enjoyed the article, thank you guys
Ralph Comer  Best Laid Floors  2/7/2014 10:45:30 AM

I will be installing 3/8" engineered Oak hardwood, I will be stapling it down. Currently, after I remove the carpet, nails & padding; the subfloor is 23/32" "plywood"/"OSB" --- sorry not sure (not a carpenter). It is a "rough" texture, at least compared to the 1/4" underlayment (this is smooth) that I have seen in my other rooms that already have hardwood from the original contractor in 2003. QUESTION: Can I just install the hardwood on the 23/32" "plywood" or do I need to first install the underlayment on top of the "plywood"?
Brian  Homeowner/DIY  3/26/2014 1:13:40 AM

I have a client who has a great room that is out of level at numerous points around the room of two inches.The froor frame below is an "I" joist spaced at 12" on center; running front to back of room. This was new construction with a full basement under. What would you reccomend as to the best way to level the subfloor? Shim the top of each joist or should I consider a self leveling liquid floor pour???
jerry cicciari,aia,csi  architect  4/19/2014 10:07:24 AM

I am building new a home and have 3/8" thick by 5" wide Wellington (Nottingham Birch) floors installed. Upon inspecting the install ,I noticed that it does not appear that any felt was put on the subfloor prior to laying the wood. I have doen my share of wood over the years and have never known to NOT use felt under nail down wood floors. Am I worrying for nothing???
Keith VanDeusen  Project Engineer  5/10/2014 10:06:36 PM


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